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Cost-Effective Preparing

Once you start reading through the information on this website panic will likely set in. Not because of all the ways things can fall apart, but rather how much it may cost to get all the gear you'll want to keep you and your family safe. Buying it all brand new, right now would:
1. be really expensive 
2. not be very wise unless you were loaded in money. 
Yes, as part of the Amazon Influencer program it would help ME out if you bought every item for which I created an Amazon link...but don't. Well, if you're loaded with money please use my links but for the rest of you, but for the rest of you, keep reading to learn ways to save a lot of money.

To give an overview of this post, saving money can be accomplished by:

  1. Buying the right new stuff at the right time.
  2. Finding deals on new stuff.
  3. Buying the right used stuff from the right place.

Buying New Stuff at the Right Time
Let me state again, you don't need to buy everything right now! As I'm writing this Texas has just come through the devastating winter storm of mid-February, 2021. We have over three months yet until June when hurricane season starts, and (knock on wood!) ten months before we may have worry about winter weather again. This means we have time to search for good deals on gear for hurricanes or winter storms, so let's explore some of these possible sources of good deals. 

Seasonal Sales: Stores love to lure you in with deals at the beginning of summer, end of summer, and a few other big seasonal events.
Spring Sales
  • Texas Tax-Free Emergency Preparedness Weekend is a good time to pick up big-ticket items such as generators, along with other stuff such as camping gear, flashlights, water purification, gas cans, coolers, tarps, carbon monoxide sensor, and a bunch of other useful equipment. Many big box hardware and sporting goods stores offer additional sales that weekend to convince you to go to them.
  • Big box hardware stores know people are starting to repair winter damage and prepare for summer activities. Look for deals on construction materials, plumbing and electrical repair stuff, and gardening tools. This may be a good time to pick up a 2-gallon garden sprayer, Gorilla Tape, and a shower nozzle to make an improved shower (see Sanitation & Hygiene Page) or a Deep-Cycle battery to attach to a solar panel system. Also look for deals on kerosene heaters and 5-gal cans of kerosene that didn't get sold during the winter.
  • Camping and outdoor sports stores have deals on camping gear, tents, camp cookware and other useful things to have on hand when the grid is down. But it may be even more cost effective to wait until fall. ;)
  • Department stores also may offer deals on things like insect repellents, sunblock, first aid kits, and even fire extinguishers. 

Mid-Summer Sales

  • Department and camping/outdoors stores are starting to put summer-weight clothing on sale to make room for the winter fashions and equipment. Keep an eye out for "quick-dry" clothing (good during/after hurricanes), and assorted cooling wraps and vests. Camping gear may also start to go on sales.
Fall Sales
  • Camping and outdoors stores are clearing out camping and backpacking gear, picnic stuff (plates, bowls, cups) and the last of their lightweight clothing and raingear. 
  • Grocery stores are clearing out summer seasonal goods such as coolers, Nalgene water bottles, hotdog/marshmallow campfire sticks, bbq equipment including grills, and other assorted picnic/outdoors stuff.
  • Big box hardware stores may be putting winterizing supplies and materials on sale. This includes small engine and chain saw oils/fluids, chainsaws, antifreeze, gas cans, pipe insulation, power inverters, solar-powered lawn lights, etc.
  • Department stores will be clearing out their "lawn & garden" stuff so deals are available on garden tools/equipment/maintenance materials, solar lights, bbq items, picnic gear, insect repellants and sunblock (best time of year to buy these!)
Mid-Winter Sales (Post-Christmas)
  • Outdoors/hunting/camping stores are clearing out all the cold-weather hunting clothing such as warm socks, hats, gloves, mittens, coats, sweaters, and long underwear. They are also clearing assorted warming devices from little, on-use chemical heaters to propane and kerosene heaters.
  • Auto parts stores often have deals on batteries, power inverters, and other spare parts for cars and other devices.

Finding Deals on New Stuff
Stores want you to buy from them and to help draw you in many have free or low cost "club" memberships. Often they'll send out weekly email adds with assorted coupons or other special deals. Create an email account specifically for these ads so they don't fill up your main email, but check the newsletter emails for coupons and other good offers. Some ones I like include: 
  • MooseJaw Outdoors - big names gear are decent prices, especially with coupons or on clearance. Check them for clothing, packs, camp cooking gear, sleeping bags, etc.
  • Campmor - another good outdoors gear site selling brand name stuff. Sign up for their newsletter for even better deals.
  • Harbor Freight Insider Track - yes, a majority of the stuff is cheaply made imports but for things like tarps, rope, zipties, security cables, safety glasses, etc. As often as once a month they send out 25% off coupons and several times a year the offer even bigger coupon discounts. They also offer Insider Track members cheap, free stuff coupons such as flashlights, screwdriver sets, and other things just for coming to the store. The clerks generally let you keep the coupon so you and family members can re-use them to build up a stash of trade goods and goodwill gifts to help with bartering. Harbor Freight's line of solar panels and solar equipment is a great way to use the big coupons to start learning the ins and outs of setting up a solar power system.
  • Northern Tools Advantage Club - pretty much Harbor Freight's main competition with all the same sorts of stuff and deals.
  • O'Reilly Auto Parts Rewards  - saving money on auto parts such as batteries, tools, and free vehicle diagnostic checks to make sure your vehicle is ready to get the heck out of Dodge if necessary!
  • Camping World - while their RVs and campers are really expensive a lot of the support equipment is reasonably priced and can be tempting when it goes on sale. Joining their club does cost $29 per year but they give you more than that back in coupons. They have a lot of hard to find stuff like generators, generator power cords, overly large or unusually small propane tanks, 12vdc lighting and kitchen devices, and interesting solar stuff.
  • Renogy - this is THE company for solar power. Sign up for their newsletter to get assorted tips, deals, and notice of sales. Their equipment costs more than the Harbor Freight stuff but the smaller size and higher quality makes up for it. A Renogy 100 Watt solar panel is 1/3 the size of the equivalent power HF panel but only costs about 15% more.
  • Sportsman's Guide - if you want military surplus they have everything. Sign up for their catalog just to drool. Lol! Their clearance deals can be awesome.
Buying the Right Used Stuff from the Right Place
Buying used gear is an excellent way of saving a lot of money. Things I buy used include cookware, blankets, clothing, storage tubs, water bottles, assorted tools, and even shoes & boots. Things I would NOT buy used are generators or other things with a gas-powered engine, kerosene or propane heaters for use indoors, wood ladders, or electronics such as CB radios and walkie-talkies. Places I like to shop for used gear include:
  • Goodwill - this is where I get a lot of clothing, tools, cookware, and even camping equipment. They have a great online store, too.
  • Salvation Army - another store like Goodwill and they also have online sales but it seems to have a smaller selection of goods.
  • St. Vincent de Paul Thrift Stores - the Catholic version of Goodwill/Salvation Army. They sell clothes, bedding, tools, etc.
  • Pawn Shops - simple tools such as screwdrivers, wrenches, socket set are cheap at pawn shops. Machetes, heavy-duty chains, bicycles, and firearms are another thing to check for. Pawn shop generators may be tempting but it's likely they were either abused or stolen.
  • Craig's List - you can find great deals over time but some of the people you'll meet can be a bit scary. Follow safe purchasing guidelines such as meeting during daylight hours in a busy location. A number of police departments have set up exchange zone for strangers selling/buying stuff.
  • Next Door - find out what your neighbors are selling (or giving away!). You can also ask if anyone is selling items.
  • Facebook Marketplace - kind of cross between Craig's List and Next Door. It can be useful for finding older ham radio gear!
  • Garage Sales - someone else's trash can be yours...but occasionally good finds occur. Tools, camping gear, kitchen stuff...
  • Flea Markets - a bunch of garage sales in one place! These can be a fun way to kill a few hours.
  • Local outdoors clubs - many places have one or more social groups devoted to hiking, camping, off-roading, hunting, fishing, hammocking, etc. People are constantly upgrading gear and then selling or even giving away older stuff. Sometimes they even organize swapmeets where everyone brings the gear they no longer want to trade or sell to others. Those are really fun!
  • Ham Radio Swapmeets (HamFests) - ham radio operators often thrive in setting up impromptu radio broadcast stations in weird places. This means they usually have a lot of off-grid solar panels, battery systems, camping gear, and other preparedness items. Unfortunately, many of these events have been cancelled due to the coronavirus.
Hopefully this helps give you ideas of when and where to buy emergency preparedness gear. You don't need to buy everything and right away. A side benefit of buying things over time is that gives you a chance to "play" with the items, learning how to set them up, use them, and pack them away again. That experience will reduce the surprises caused by untested gear.

Of course, if you DO have tons of money and want everything NOW then check out my Amazon stores and help me out. :)

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Emergency Preparedness: Generators

Nowadays we used a lot of very power-dependent gizmos and so if you want to maintain anything near a modern lifestyle when the power goes out you'll need a generator. To try and do it with solar panels is possible but requires a lot more space and money. 

In this post I'll be covering general safety tips, how the generate electricity, the pros and cons of different types of generators, what types of extra equipment you might need with a particular type of generator, and the preventative maintenance you'll need to perform on it to make sure it's ready to go when you need it. I won't be covering whole-house generators that are plumbed directly into your natural gas supply, other than to say while they can be sized to power your entire house, they have a high initial cost and a fairly high running cost. If that's the type of system you want contact an instillation company directly. 

Generators are labelled by how many Watts of power they can produce continuously and for initial surge. An example would be "3250 Watts Continuous, 5050 Watts Surge". The surge Watts are necessary to run certain devices that require a lot of energy to start but once they're running they need less power to keep going. AC units, freezers, and fridges are examples of devices having a high, initial surge power demand and then a lower operating power requirement.


Generator Safety & Considerations

Placement

  • Don't run inside the house or attached garage. Exhaust is poisonous!
  • Running a generator in an unattached garage isn't a much better idea.
  • Don't run it near an open window, door, or AC air intake (yours or your neighbors).
  • The exhaust is HOT so don't direct it towards anything flammable or easily melted. It's not good for plants, either.
  • Don't let rain, snow, or sleet fall on the generator. Set it on a dry surface.
  • Be sure the generator is level and stable to insure proper flow of fuel.
  • Check local or state laws and HOA regulations on the type, placement, hours of use, and fuel storage for generators. Texas generator laws.

Carbon Monoxide

  • Generator exhaust contains carbon monoxide, a poisonous, odorless gas that irreversibly binds to blood hemoglobin, preventing the blood from absorbing/transporting oxygen.
  • Always have a working carbon monoxide detector between the generator and the house to let you know if the wind has shifted, sending carbon monoxide towards the house.
  • Pay attention to wind direction (see warning above).

Grounding

  • Read the owner's manual to see how to properly ground your generator!
  • To avoid possible, accidental shocks/electrocution the generator should be grounded.
  • Grounding can be accomplished by running a jumper cable from the generator's grounding point to a piece of metal pipe or iron rebar stuck at least 12" into the ground. Attaching the ground end of the jumper cable to your water line is another good method.

Refueling

  • Don't try to refuel a generator while it's still running. You and your house will end up burned beyond recognition.
  • Let the generator's engine cool down to a touchable temperature before refueling.
  • Don't smoke while refueling the generator. Using a match to see into the fuel tank is also a real bad idea.
  • Don't store spare fuel inside the house or attached garage. Storing it in an unattached garage isn't much better. Store it in the yard somewhere protected, like a shed.

Power Cords

  • Use a heavy-gauge power cord to run power to heavy-demand items such as freezers, fridges, or AC units.
  • If possible, run individual, heavy-duty power cords from the generator to each heavy-demand item (fridge, freezer, AC) to avoid drawing too much current through a single power cord. If the power flowing through a cord gets too high it can catch fire!
  • If you can't afford multiple heavy-duty cords get one super-heavy duty cord with three outlets at the end.
  • Run the power cords through a window and then fill the window opening with blankets, foam rubber, towels, or other stuffing to reduce the chance of carbon monoxide entering the house.

Theft

  • Generators are targets for thieves, especially in a big disaster.
  • Write down the make, model, and serial number of your generator to help recover it if stolen.
  • Figure out where you'll be running the generator and then cement into the ground some sort of large, steel ring near that spot. Chain the generator to that ring using a heavy-duty security cable and lock. Better yet, cement several rings into the ground and use several security cables to lock it down.
  • If the cemented ring isn't an option, chain it to a tree, vehicle, or some other big, immovable object.
  • If possible, after dark take turns staying awake to keep an eye on the generator.

Spare Parts

  • 2-3 bottles of the proper oil required to maintain proper lubrication of the engine.
  • 2-3 spark plugs
  • 1-2 spare air filters
  • 1 spare pull-start cord
  • In the case of a gasoline or diesel unit, a spare carburetor is good to have on-hand
  • Fuel line tubing. As the machine ages the fuel line naturally becomes brittle. Figure out what size interior diameter (ID) your generator needs and buy a few spare feet of fuel line (it's cheap) from a local hardware store.
  • Funnel for adding oil
  • Used oil container
  • Battery charge maintainer if electric start
  • Multimeter for troubleshooting power issues, assuming you learn how to use it.

Pull vs Electric Start

  • Pull starts are mechanically simpler and therefore more reliable but also require a great deal of physical strength. Weak or injured people may not be able to get the generator running.
  • Electric starts are much easier to fire up...assuming everything is working right. They require a battery which needs to be kept charged. Over time the battery naturally loses strength even if kept connected to a battery maintainer. After three years it becomes much less likely to work and probably should be replaced.


How Generators Produce Electricity

When you move a magnet past a piece of wire, the magnetic field will force some of the wire's electrons to be released and move along the wire. This movement of electrons is what we know as electricity and it can be tapped to power electronic devices...assuming the wire is long enough and the magnet is strong enough.

If you coil the wire into a ring the magnet only needs to move a short distance to start moving the electrons. In a generator, there is a very long piece of coiled wire that is rotated between a ring of multiple magnets. As this wire coil turns lots of electrons are sent down it to the power outlet where you plug stuff into the generator. The more wire, more magnets, and faster the wire coil is spun the more power the generator produces. The the resulting electricity is alternating current aka AC voltage with a full sine wave.

To spin the wire coil, generators use some sort of gasoline, diesel, or propane powered engine to rotate the coil at extremely high speeds. The type of fuel the engine uses determines a lot of the cost, physical size, pros, cons, extra equipment, and maintenance the generator will need. Keep in mind, while it might be nice to have power continuously, depending what you're running you don't have to run the generator non-stop. Running it for an hour every 3-4 hours will be more than enough to keep your fridge & freezer cold if you keep them closed. 

I've already shown how to calculate how many Watts you'll need in the post Emergency Preparedness: Power Basics so let's move on to talking about what to expect from the different types of generators.


Propane Generators

I'm starting with propane-powered generators because in my personal opinion they are the most practical type for most people due to the easy & safe storage of fuel along with their relatively low maintenance needs. After studying everything about generators I chose a 3250 Watt, propane-powered generator and love it. The one I have is no longer made but the equivalent would be a Champion Model 76533 Propane/gasoline Dual Fuel Generator.

Pros:

  • Fuel Storage - these generators use a standard, 20lb propane bottle like your propane grill which are readily available (most of the time). Propane doesn't degrade so you can store multiple bottles for years if necessary. 
  • Fuel Cost - Propane is generally much cheaper than cost of gasoline or diesel needed to produce an equal amount of power.
  • Fuel Safety - while propane is highly flammable it is non-toxic. If you accidentally release some it'll quickly dissipate without causing an environmental or health risk.  
  • Runtime - a 20lb bottle will give 6-10 hours of run time depending on how much power you need from the generator. Three bottles will often be enough for most situations...but you can usually trade your neighbors electricity in exchange for their BBQ grill propane tank if the situation lasts longer than three days.
  • Power Output - propane is a high-energy fuel so it can produce a lot of electricity. They usually start at 3000 Watts and can be found up to double that. 
  • Maintenance - since propane is a gas, when it evaporates it doesn't leave behind the gums and resins that gasoline or diesel do. This means lower carburetor maintenance! The carburetor is where the propane and air mix before going into the piston's ignition chamber (the part where propane is burned). Since the fuel is still unburned in the carburetor, when you turn off the generator fuel remains there. Gasoline and diesel will eventually evaporate form there, leaving behind goo which can prevent a carburetor from working the next time you need to run the generator. Propane doesn't leave goo behind!
Cons

  • Size - to take full advantage of the power produced by propane the resulting generators are physically large. They will be up to 2-3 feet long and 2 feet wide.
  • Noise - most propane generators are made for construction sites where noise isn't a problem. They will be as loud as a standard gas-powered lawnmower so running them is noisy! This is especially problematic at night...or when you don't want thieves to know you have a generator.
  • Fuel Storage - keep in mind while propane tanks are safe to keep filled for long periods of time, the valve systems on the tanks have an expiration date. If the tank valve has expired, propane refillers won't refill it. This is really only a problem with the big, 50lb propane tanks that can't be swapped out for regular tanks at tank exchange locations, though.
 Extra Equipment & Maintenance

  • Fuel Tanks - if you have a propane generator, then you'll want at least three standard, 20lb propane tanks. Better still, several 50lb propane tanks, though those are heavy to move around.
  • Maintenance (Tools) - proper oil for the engine, funnel for filling the oil, spark plugs, spark plug wrench, spark plug gap tool, used oil storage container.
  • Maintenance (Oil Changes) - Usually oil needs to be changed after the first 30 hours and then every 100 hours of runtime after that or every year after, but check the generator's instruction manual to see what it says.
  • Maintenance (Spark Plug) - Change every year.


Gasoline Generators

While there's a lot of good things about gasoline-powered generators, I just don't like their negative aspects. If I were to get one it'd be a Honda Model 663510 1000 Watt Generator.

Pros

  • Small Size - gasoline is a very efficient fuel and so its popular for physically small, lower power demand generators. A 800 Watt unit can be less than 1.5 feet long and 1 foot wide, making them popular with campers who don't have high energy demands
  • Quiet - because gasoline generators have a long history of use by RVers and campers, silencing technology on them is much more advanced.
  • Linking - again due to the long use by RVers, certain gasoline-powered generators of the same make and model can be linked together to meet higher power demands. Honda's, in particular. This is useful if several family members, neighbors, or post-apocalyptic tribes want the ability to sometimes join together to run a higher power-needing device.
Cons

  • Fuel Lifespan - gasoline begins degrading right after it leaves the gas station pump so long-term storage is problematic. You need to add some sort of fuel stabilizer to the gasoline can to slow down this degradation but even then the life is measured in months, not years.
  • Fuel Safety - gasoline is REALLY flammable so storing three days worth (15-20 gallons) basically places a bomb on your property (only slight exaggeration!). Gasoline will dry out and irritate skin if spilled on it. A leaking gas can will cause environmental damage to the ground where it leaked. Cleaning up a gasoline spill creates a hazardous waste.
  • Fuel Ethanol - most gas station gasoline is mandated by the government to contain ethanol. Ethanol causes corrosion of metal parts in an engine, causing hard-to-fix mechanical issues and shortening the generator's lifespan. Ethanol-free fuel can be found at some locations but it costs a lot more.
  • Gas Cans - metal gas cans will last years but they cost a lot and if damaged they can start rusting. Plastic gas cans are cheap but turn brittle and have a short lifespan (less than two years, to be safe).
  • Maintenance - a gasoline generator MUST be run under a load one a month otherwise the carburetor WILL get gummed up, making it unreliable. This month running is a pain in the A55!

Extra Equipment & Maintenance

  • Fuel Tanks - you'll want at least 15 gallons of gas stored at all times. 
  • Fuel Stabilizer - if storing fuel for months you need to add some sort of fuel stabilizer otherwise it degrades and doesn't burn properly.
  • Replacement Carburetor - its often best to swap out a clean carburetor  while cleaning a gummed-up one because you forgot to run the generator some month.
  • Maintenance (Tools) - proper oil for the engine, funnel for filling the oil, spark plugs, spark plug wrench, spark plug gap tool, used oil storage container.
  • Maintenance (Oil Changes) - check owner's manual
  • Maintenance (Spark Plug) - check owner's manual


Diesel Generators

Diesel generators have a number of benefits over gasoline but also some big drawbacks, depending on your needs. A diesel generator was actually my second choice based on the pros and cons. I like this Generac Model 6864 unit as it is made by the company that makes my propane-powered generator.

Pros

  • Durability - diesel generators are usually used where they need to run a long time and so are generally the most reliable type of unit.
  • Power - because of the power density of diesel fuel, they are often the most powerful units one can buy. If you are wanting to run a lot of stuff at the same time and you have a place to store the fuel a diesel generator makes sense.
  • Fuel Storage - diesel actually has a fairly low flashpoint, making storing a large amount of it much safer than gasoline or even propane. Diesel fuel cans are colored yellow to distinguish them from gasoline cans.
  • Fuel Cost - if the diesel is going into a generator you can buy the untaxed "farm" aka "off road" diesel...but if you are caught using to fuel a vehicle driven on the road you can be fined a lot. Off road diesel contains a red dye to indicate its untaxed. If traces of the red dye are found in your diesel vehicle you are in a lot of trouble. The government wants its tax money!
Cons

  • Cost - SUPER expensive!
  • Physical Size - with power comes size and so diesel generators will be bigger and heavier than even propane ones.
  • Fuel Stability - diesel degrades in a different way than gasoline. It actually supports bacterial growth so stabilizing it requires a diesel-specific fuel stabilizer.
  • Fuel Viscosity - diesel fuel is thick and in cold temperatures it can gel up and become hard to pour!
  • Maintenance - like a gasoline generator, the diesel unit needs to be run at least once a month to keep the carburetor clean and all the seals tight.

Extra Equipment & Maintenance

  • Fuel Tanks - you'll want at least 14 gallons of gas stored at all times such as in this farm equipment diesel tank. 
  • Using Up Old Fuel - if you don't have a diesel truck using up old fuel close to going bad becomes a problem. If you are using farm diesel then you can't even burn it in a diesel road truck or car.
  • Fuel Stabilizer - if storing fuel for months you need to add some sort of antibacterial diesel stabilizer otherwise it degrades and doesn't burn properly. Due NOT use a fuel stabilizer designed for gasoline!
  • Replacement Carburetor - like with a gasoline unit, its often best to swap out a clean carburetor  while cleaning a gummed-up one because you forgot to run the generator some month.
  • Maintenance (Tools) - proper oil for the engine, funnel for filling the oil, spark plugs, spark plug wrench, spark plug gap tool, used oil storage container, diesel storage tank
  • Maintenance (Oil Changes) - check owner's manual
  • Maintenance (Spark Plug) - check owner's manual


As a member of the Amazon Influencer's Program, I am required to inform you that Amazon will pay me a portion of the sale price of any of the products linked above.


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Emergency Preparedness: Power Basics

Having a reliable source of power during a natural (or man-made!) disaster isn't just a matter of comfort, it can save your or someone else's life. However, with so many different methods of maintaining emergency power, the options, cost, pros and cons of all the different ways can be overwhelming. The goal of this post is to help you understand those option and then decide which best fits your power needs, available space, budget, and level of effort.

Everyone has different power needs but how does one figure out how much power is needed? It boils down to what sort of equipment do you need to power? If all you need is to recharge your smartphone every so often you won't need much. You or a family member needs a CPAP machine? You'll need more. Want to run and AC unit, fridge, freezer, and computer network? You can do that if you're willing. So let's look at calculating your power needs, but to do that we need to learn some terms and units of measuring electricity.

Important Definitions

Amp-hour (aka ampere-hour aka Ah): unit of electrical charge needed to produce 1 amp of power continuously for 1 hour. Commonly used to describe power potential of batteries

Watts (aka W): unit of measure describing energy flow

Voltage (aka V): unit of measure of how badly electricity wants to get from point A to point B. May be either AC (alternating current) or DC (direct current)

AC (aka alternating current): electricity produced by the spinning of a generator produces electricity who's direction of flow from point A to point B keeps changing direction. The electricity coming out of your wall outlet, gas-powered generator, or wind-powered generator is AC and most household devices are designed to use this sort of alternating current or they have a device which converts the AC to DC (direct current).

DC (aka direct current): this is electricity which always flows in the same direction from point A to point B. Electricity from batteries and solar panels is DC and so any equipment that uses batteries is also DC.

Load a measurement of how much power a device needs to operate, usually measured in amps or watts. Devices with an electrical motor such as air conditioners, fridges, and freezers have both a high initial load and then a lower continuous running load. This means the power requirements can be high. Electronics, lights, radios, and other items that don't have a motor usually require less power.

Battery a devices that generates electrical power by a chemical reaction. The chemistry can be acid or lithium based and they are designed to be either one-time use or rechargeable. Large rechargeable batteries include car batteries or "deep-cycle" batteries that power things like golf carts, electric scooters, or automobile "jump-starters". The power output of batteries is usually measure in amp-hours. Example, a 25Ah battery can produce 1 amp of power for 25 hour, 25 amps for 1 hour, or some other balanced combination of that output. The power output can also be measured in Watt-Hours by multiplying amp-hours by voltage. Example,  for a 12VDC, 25Ah battery, 12 x 25 = 300 Watt-Hours. Like with amp-hours, this can be 1 Watt for 300 hours, 300 Watts, for 1 hour, or some balanced mix.

Car Battery a type of large battery found in diesel and gasoline-powered automobiles, which turns the starter motor when the car is first started. These are designed to produce a lot of current really fast at 12.6 VDC (Volts of DC). They will be permanently damaged if drained down to where they're producing less than 11.9 VDC. While driving, your vehicle recharges the battery using 13.5-14.7 VDC.

Deep-Cycle Battery a type of large batteries that is designed to be charged up and then expended hundreds or thousands of times as opposed to a car battery. They usually are designed to produce 12 VDC for long periods of time as opposed to the quick power production of a car battery. They can be drained somewhat lower than a car battery without damage. Deep-cycle batteries are used to store power from solar panels.

Inverter an electrical device which converts DC power from a battery (car or deep-cycle) or solar panel into AC power need for many household electronics. Expensive inverters convert the direct (DC) current into "real" (sine wave) AC electricity. Cheaper inverters convert the DC into "square" sine waves which can damage electronics. Inverters come in different sizes to handle different power demands. You need to make sure your inverter can handle the power needed. If it's too small you'll blow its fuse.

Fuse a safety device made of a thin wire enclosed in a plastic or glass case included as part of the power system. If your load exceeds the power available the thin wire will heat up and melt, cutting power to the device but also preventing more serious damage to the power-supplying battery, generator, or solar panel. When a fuse "blows" or burns out to save the equipment it must be replaced to complete the circuit before the system will work again. If it blows you need to reduce the load on your power supply by either reducing the number of devices trying to use power or changing to a bigger source of power. If your system has fuses it's good to keep replacement fuses on hand in case you accidentally blow a fuse.

Circuit-Breaker a more advanced type of fuse that works mechanically to break the circuit if the load is too big for the power source. These usually have a button that one presses to reset the circuit breaker rather than needing replacement like a fuse.

Generator a device that produces electrical power by rotating a coil of insulated copper wire in a magnetic field. This causes electrons in the copper to flow which we can then use to power stuff. The output is generally AC due to the coil's rotation. Rotating the coil is done by some sort of engine running on gasoline, diesel fuel, propane, or natural gas. Electrical power output is based on the horsepower of the engine spinning the coil and generally range from 800 Watts to over 10,000 Watts.

Solar Panel a device that converts sunlight into electricity as DC voltage. The type and size of the panel, the temperature it is, and how much light is hitting it determines how much power a solar panel puts out. Output is given in Watts. A small panel designed to just charge a cell phone may produce 0.5 to 10 Watts. A large panel may produce 300 Watts. 100 Watt panels currently give the best cost to power value.

Charge Controller a device that is connected between a solar panel and a battery to protect the battery as it charges. The amount of power being put out by a solar panel is constantly changing due to the angle of the sun, clouds, or other shade coming and going. If the solar panel puts out power with a voltage greater than 14.7 VDC the attached battery(s) can be ruined. Cheap, basic "PWM" charge controllers (under $30) only protect the battery whereas expensive (over $100) "MPPT" charge controllers do all sorts of other magic to optimize the charge of batteries. I use an MPPT charge controller in my system to minimize the time need for my 100 Watt solar panel to charge my 30Ah deep-cycle battery, taking about 4 hours of sunlight.


Calculating Power Requirements

All electrical devices sold in the USA are required to have a UL Label showing its power needs. This label will list the voltage amount and type, start-up amps, and running amps the thing needs. An example is shown below and a yellow box marks the amps and voltage it needs.

To run this, I need to give it 5 amps supplied via 115 VAC (Volts of Alternating Current). To see if I can power it I need to convert this to Watts by multiplying the amps by the volts: 5.0A x 115 VAC = 575 Watts. My single 100 Watt solar panel isn't nearly enough, I'll need to run it off my 3250 Watt propane generator.

Some Watt Requirements of Household Devices
Air Conditioner: 7200 Watts to start, 3250 Watts to run
Refrigerator: 2000 Watts to start, 500 Watts to run
Microwave Oven: 3500 Watts to start, 700 Watts to run
Water Pump: 4000 Watts to start, 2000 Watts to run
Television: 300 Watts
Computer: 400 Watts
Coffee Maker: 1500 Watts
Electric Blanket: 400 Watts

To figure out how many total Watts you'll need to do the "volts x amps" calculation for everything you want to run at the same time and add them all up to get the total Watts needed. This number can climb very high very quickly! Assume that if you want to run a fridge, freezer, and AC unit you'll need some sort of powerful generator or a whole bunch of solar panels and batteries along with a very large inverter to convert the solar panel/battery DC power into the AC power this needs. Follow the links below to learn more about using generators and solar panel systems.

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Emergency Preparedness: 72 Hour Kit

In the case of an unexpected (or more recently proven, expected!) grid-down event, the Red Cross and the US government warn people to NOT expect help for at least 72 hours. During that time you need to be able to fend for yourself and ideally help out your neighbors. 

Below are a series of videos I did on the basics of creating such a 72-hour emergency kit. Hopefully these videos will show just how easy it is to GREATLY increase your safety and comfort when things turn really bad.


72-Hour Kit: Overview



72-Hour Kit: Water
Store-bought 1gal jugs leak so place in plastic tub. Heavy-duty containers are better.

Water Purification
Boiling removes bacteria & viruses but not chemical contamination.
Filter “straws” remove bacteria but not viruses or chemicals
Berkey black filters remove bacteria, viruses, and chemicals
Chemical water sterilization kills bacteria, most viruses but doesn’t remove harmful chemicals


72-Hour Kit: Storing Food
Store what you eat, eat what you store. Aim for stuff that can be eaten right out of the package.


72-Hour Kit: Cooking Food
Camp stove
Carbon monoxide monitor


72-Hour Kit: Washing Dishes
3-tube scout method: soapy water --> rinse water --> water with bleach


72-Hour Kit: Medicines
Be ready for pain, burns, bug bites, sleeplessness, upset stomaches, or diarrhea 


72-Hour Kit: First Aid Supplies
Basic 1st Aid Kit
Gauze
Vetwrap (better than an ACE bandage)
CPR Mask
Burn Jel
Instant Cold Packs


72-Hour Kit: Documents Binder
Keep printouts of your insurance policies, medical information, banking records, and resume/employment information ready to access.


72-Hour Kit: Emergency Lighting
AAA-battery handheld flashlight
AAA-battery headlamp


72-Hour Kit: Emergency Radios & Communication
AM/FM/NOAA Weather Radio


72-Hour Kit: Fire Extinguisher!
Fire extinguisher 


Websites to Help You Be Prepared 
1. US Government: https://www.ready.gov/ 
2. Red Cross: https://www.redcross.org/get-help/how-to-prepare-for-emergencies.html 
3. US Center for Disease Control: https://emergency.cdc.gov/
4. Survival Mom: https://thesurvivalmom.com/




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Identifying Unknown Plants/Mushrooms

Proper identification of plants is the hardest skill beginner foragers need to develop. Luckily there are all sorts of resources available to help you figure out what plant you've found. Below are websites, apps, and books that I've found particularly useful over the years when trying to figure out a new plant. Mushroom identification help is at the bottom of the page.

You can actually post pictures of your plant on the Facebook pages but it helps if you've done some preliminary research on what it might be. Asking "Is this a...?" will get you a water response than "What is this?". Multiple, CLEAR, pictures of leaves, flowers, fruit, etc along with information about the location and environment in which it was found helps tremendously.

Facebook
www.facebook.com/ForagingTexas/
www.facebook.com/groups/texasflora/

Weeds Websites
Weed Alert
Weed ID
Preen Weed ID
Weeds Apps
Apple ID Weeds
Google ID Weeds
Different Weed ID App
Monsanto Weed ID
Weeds Books
Weeds (A Golden Guide from St. Martin's Press)
Brush and Weeds of Texas Rangelands


Vines Websites
Vines of Central Texas (pdf file)
Vines Books
Trees, Shrubs, and Vines of the Texas Hill Country (Jan Wrede)


Wildflower Websites
Texas Wildflower Pictures
UT Wildflowers Guide
Aggie Hort Wildflowers Guide
MyWildflowers.com
Wildflowers.org
Wildflower Apps
East Texas Wildflowers (also available as Apple app)
West Texas Wildflowers (also available as Apple app)
Wildflower Books
Wildflowers of Texas (Geyata Ajilvsgi)


Trees Websites
Texas Trees Identification
Arbor Day Foundation Tree Identification
Tree Apps
LeafSnap
Tree App
Tree Books
Trees, Shrubs, and Vines of the Texas Hill Country (Jan Wrede)
Trees of East Texas (Robert Vines)


Freshwater Plant Websites
A&M Aquaplant
Freshwater Plant Books
Weeds (A Golden Guide from St. Martin's Press)


Coastal Plant Websites
Gulf Coast Plants
Coastal Plant Books
Marine Plants of the Texas Coast (Roy Lehman)


West Texas Plant Websites
Trans-Pecos Plants

Mushrooms Websites
Mushroom Expert
Texas Mushroom ID Facebook
Mushroom Apps
Roger's Mushrooms
Mushroom Books
100 Edible Mushrooms (Michael Kuo)
Texas Mushrooms
North American Mushrooms



Buy my book! Outdoor Adventure Guides Foraging covers 70 of North America's tastiest and easy to find wild edibles shown with the same big pictures as here on the Foraging Texas website.
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