Yarrow

Scientific name: Achillea millefolium
Abundance: uncommon
What: flowers, leaves, roots
How: flower/leaves-tea, young leaves-salad greens
Where: sunny fields, landscaping, yards
When: summer
Nutritional Value: low
Other Uses: used in the past to treat cuts and wounds.
Dangers: may cause allergic reaction in some people

Medicinal Summary:
Flowers/Leaves/Roots - hemostatic; anti-diarrheal; thermoregulator/fever reducer; wound healer; antibacterial; heals bruises, sprains, and strains; reduces swelling; reduces urinary tract problems; expectorant (poultice, tisane, tincture)

Leaf Arrangement: The leaves of yarrow are arranged alternately along the stem.

Leaf Shape: The leaves are compound, finely dissected and feathery, with numerous small leaflets. Each leaflet is lanceolate and measures approximately 1 to 4 inches in length.

Leaf Venation: Pinnate venation, with veins running from the base to the tip of each leaflet. Veins are hard to see due to thinness of the leaflets.

Leaf Margin: The leaf margin is typically serrated or toothed.

Leaf Color: The leaves are usually medium to dark green.

Flower Structure: The flowers are arranged in flattened, umbrella-like clusters known as compound corymbs.

Flower Color: Flower colors can vary, but common colors include white, pink, or yellow.

Fruit: The fruit is a small, dry, one-seeded achene.

Seed: Small, brown, and seed-like achenes are produced.

Stem: The stem is erect, slender, and usually hairless.

Hairs: Fine hairs may be found on some parts of the plant but are not a prominent feature.

Height: Achillea millefolium typically grows to a height of 1 to 3 feet.  

Yarrow



Yarrow flowers

Yarrow stem and leaves


Young yarrow plants

Mature yarrow, going to seed.

Extreme close-up of yarrow leaves.


Texas distribution, attributed to U. S. Department of Agriculture. The marked counties are guidelines only. Plants may appear in other counties, especially if used in landscaping.


North American distribution, attributed to U. S. Department of Agriculture.


Look for yard along the edges of woods just inside the shady areas as well as in fields, especial across Central Texas. The finely divided leaves, from which it gets part of its scientific name "millefolium" give it a wild carrot-like appearance but it is a much shorter plant, rarely reaching three feet in height.

It's main use is medicinal rather than as a food source. Tea from its flowers and leaves helps produce productive sweating to flush toxins from the body and skin as well as to help fight infections. The leaves are a potent blood clotting agent used to staunch bleeding from even severe wounds as well as reduce the chance of infection. They were a part of Roman soldiers' "first aid kits" and worked surprisingly well.

There is some record of the dried flowers and leaves being smoked for respiratory medicinal properties.


Buy my book! Outdoor Adventure Guides Foraging covers 70 of North America's tastiest and easy to find wild edibles shown with the same big pictures as here on the Foraging Texas website.

Yucca/Spanish Dagger

Scientific name: Yucca spp.
Abundance: common
What: young flowers; flower stalks on both thick and thin-leaf yuccas before flowers appear; edible fruit of thick-leaf yucca (Yucca treculeana).
How: New flowers raw or cooked, flower stalks raw or cooked, fruit baked or roasted, stems raw or cooked
Where: Sunny areas
When: Flowers just after bloom, flower stalks before flowers appear, fruits when ripe, March through end of summer.
Nutritional Value: carbohydrates, minerals
Other uses: Soap from stem and root, fibers/cordage from leaves, laxative properties, fish poison (saponins) from root.
Dangers: Only flowers, flower stalk, and fruit are edible, the rest of the plant is very poisonous.

Yuccu plant


Yucca flowers. They are best within the first few days or opening but after that they can turn nasty. Taste one before harvesting a lot.


Closeup of yucca flowers and flower pods.


Yucca fruit.




Yucca just before flowering.


Close-up of unopened flower stalk.


Close-up of flowers just beginning to open. The individual flower buds taste like cauliflower.


Texas distribution, attributed to U. S. Department of Agriculture. The marked counties are guidelines only. Plants may appear in other counties, especially if used in landscaping.


North American distribution, attributed to U. S. Department of Agriculture.


The flower stalk is sweet-tasting before it produces flower pods/flowers. Roast or pickle it before the pods appear. As the flower pods mature the stalk becomes tasteless and tough. After the flowers have past the ripe fruit of the thick-leaf yucca (Yucca treculeana) can be roasted and eaten like eggplant. Thick-leaf yucca is identified by the leaf base being four inches across where it attaches to the yucca's trunk.

The fibers of the yucca leaf are very strong and have been twisted into cordage for thousands of years. It is best to soak the leaves in water for a week or more to rot (aka retting) away the non-fibrous portion of the leaf which would otherwise weaken the cordage.

Yucca root contains a very high concentration of chemicals called "saponins" which are a natural soap. Native Americans used to put mashed yucca root in a woven bag, which was then dropped into a small pond or stream which had been dammed. The saponins enter into the bloodstream of the fish through their gills, stupefying them. They float to the surface where than can be easily caught. If quickly placed in clean, un-poisoned water the fish may revive and not suffer permanent damage.


Buy my book! Outdoor Adventure Guides Foraging covers 70 of North America's tastiest and easy to find wild edibles shown with the same big pictures as here on the Foraging Texas website.

Medicinal Concoctions

Poultice – The simplest method of using many medicinal plants is to mash/pulp the plant by chewing then place it on the skin. Note, some plants can only be used externally and so can’t be chewed. Those must be pounded or chopped into pulp. The poultice can be placed “as is” directly on the skin though it is usually cleaner and easier to maintain proper placement if the mashed plant is wrapped in a single layer of thing fabric such as cheesecloth. Fresh plants usually contain enough water for a poultice though a bit of warm water often helps. Poultices made from dried plants will require rehydration with warm to comfortably hot water, bringing the mash to a cooked oatmeal like consistency. Poultices are generally made with leaves but also sometimes flowers and even roots.

Tisane – many call an infusion of plants steeped in hot water that is drunk an herbal tea, however the correct term is tisane. Standard ratio is 1 oz (weight) of plant in 1 qt of water steeped 30-60 minutes. Generally made from leaves and flowers.

Decoction – plant matter boiled 10-20 minutes, removed from heat, and steeped 1 hour. Decoctions that are drunk are also called tisanes. Standard ratio is 1 oz (weight) of plant in 1 qt of water. Generally made from roots, bark, and seeds.

Syrup – adding sugar to a strong (3.2oz plant per 8 oz of water) infusion or decoction as a preservative. Use equal amounts of sugar and water, simmer 20-30 minutes to dissolve all the sugar. Generally, honey, maple sugar, or raw sugar is used.

Lozenge - boiling a syrup down until it forms a hard candy upon healing. Usually requires syrup to reach a boiling temperature of 290 Fahrenheit on a candy thermometer.

Tincture – plant matter extracted in ethanol. Standard ratio for dried herbs to ethanol is 1:5 which is about 5oz of plant in a 1 qt jar filled to the neck with 100 proof vodka. Let sit minimum of 14 days, shaking twice a day but 6-8 weeks is preferred before straining out the plant. Fresh plant tinctures are made in a similar way but using the higher strength, 190 proof alcohol to take in account for the water present in the plant.

Double Extraction – combining equal amounts of a tincture and a decoction. Usually done with Reishi mushrooms to extract the water and alcohol-soluble components. The same chopped mushrooms can be decocted by boiling for 10-20 minutes an equal volume of water to the amount of vodka tincture. A stronger double extraction is done using equal amounts of fresh mushroom for the tincture and the decoction.

Oil Infusion – plant matter steeped in hot oil (125°F to 145°F) 8-12 hours, allowed to cool, the strained. Use dried herbs as fresh ones can spoil in the oil resulting in a potential poisonous concoction. Standard ratio is 4 oz herb to 1 qt of oil.

Salve – an ointment made by combining an oil infusion with bees wax to thicken the oil. Use 1:8 ratio (volume) bees wax to oil for softer ointments and 1:6 ratio for harder salves.

Liniment – plant matter tincture for EXTERNAL USE ONLY made using rubbing alcohol (isopropanol) rather than ethanol. Use the same amounts of plant and rubbing alcohol as in tinctures.

Elixir - creating a tincture that uses equal amounts of plant material, alcohol (usually brandy) and honey. Let sit at least six weeks in a dark location, shaking every day, before straining out the plant matter and transferring to a dropper bottle.

Infused Vinegar - plant matter soaked in warmed vinegar (usually apple cider or a wine-based vinegar). Heat the vinegar to approximately 100-120°F, pour over plant matter in a glass jar. Cover plant material by ~1/2 inch of vinegar. Seal tightly and store in a dark place. Shake daily for at least two weeks before straining out the plant matter and begin using.

Oxymel - adding 1 part honey to 1 part infused vinegar.

Smoke - drawing the smoke from smoldering herbs into one's mouth is a potent way of accessing the medicinal compounds of some plants. Traditionally, this smoke was swallowed rather than drawn into the lungs, thereby avoiding lung damage.


Buy my book! Outdoor Adventure Guides Foraging covers 70 of North America's tastiest and easy to find wild edibles shown with the same big pictures as here on the Foraging Texas website.

Prairie Verbena

Scientific Name(s): Glandularia bipinnatifida
Abundance: common
What: roots, stems, leaves, flowers
How: tincture, tea (tisane)
Where: sunny fields, disturbed areas, landscaping
When: spring, summer, fall
Nutritional Value: unknown
Dangers: do not take if pregnant

Medicinal Summary: nervine (anti-anxiety), mild sedative, anti-inflammatory

Leaf Arrangement: The leaves are opposite-alternating, meaning pairs of leaves grow at the same level on opposite sides of the stem and the set above below will be rotated 90 degrees along the stem.

Leaf Shape: The leaves are deeply divided and bipinnatifid (leaf clefts have smaller clefts), measuring approximately 2-4 inches in length and 1-2 inches in width.

Leaf Venation: The leaves have pinnate venation, with a central midrib from which smaller veins branch out laterally.

Leaf Margin: The margins of the leaves are serrated with deep, irregular lobes.

Leaf Color: The leaves are green, typically a bright to medium green shade.

Flower Structure: The flowers are tubular and arranged in dense, rounded clusters called corymbs, located at the ends of stems. Individual flowers measure about 0.2-0.4 inches in diameter. Each of the five petals has a rounded notch at the outer end.

Flower Color: The flowers range from pink to purple, often with variations in hue within the same cluster.

Fruit: The fruit is a schizocarp (husked seed pod) that splits into four nutlets, each about 0.1 inches long.

Seed: Each nutlet contains a single seed, approximately 0.1 inches in length and 0.05 inches in width.

Stem: The square stems are erect and hairy, with a diameter of around 0.1-0.2 inches. They may become woody as the plant ages, especially near the base.

Hairs: The plant has glandular hairs that excrete a sticky substance, especially noticeable on stems and leaves.

Height: The plant typically reaches a height of 6-24 inches, depending on growing conditions.

Texas distribution, attributed to U. S. Department of Agriculture. The marked counties are guidelines only. Plants may appear in other counties, especially if used in landscaping.


North American distribution, attributed to U. S. Department of Agriculture.


Prairie verbena aka Dakota Mock Verbena is (sadly) always a big hit in my foraging classes. Why is this depressing? Because often up to 80% of the students get really excited to learn it has anti-anxiety powers. Why the heck are so many people suffering from anxiety?! I don't get it, but at least nature is there to help.

To access its mentally soothing powers, pour 10oz of boiling water over one teaspoon of dried plant matter (flowers, leaves, & stems), then let steep 5-8 minutes. Strain out the verbena material, let cool to a drinkable temperature, then drink. The flavor can be adjusted with lemon and/or honey if desired.

Verbenas are not safe for pregnant women as they can stimulate uterine contractions.

These flowers are easily added to landscaping, bringing a long-lasting touch of color. They thrive in full sun all across Texas and surrounding states. While maybe not as strong of anti-anxiety agent as passion vine, it doesn't spread and take over your yard like Passafloria vines do.

Buy my book! Outdoor Adventure Guides Foraging covers 70 of North America's tastiest and easy to find wild edibles shown with the same big pictures as here on the Foraging Texas website.

Rose of Sharon

Scientific Name(s): Hibiscus syriacus
Abundance: common
What: flower buds, flowers, tender seed pods, seeds
How: flowers - raw; flower buds & young seed pods - raw or cooked like okra; seeds - roasted for coffee substitute
Where: landscaping - full sun, well drained soil, neutral pH
When: summer
Nutritional Value: antioxidants, mucilage
Dangers: none

Medicinal Summary: mucilage in flowers binds to glucose in the GI tract, slowing/stopping its passage into the blood

Leaf Arrangement: Leaves are arranged alternately along the stems, with each leaf emerging singly at a node.​

Leaf Shape: Leaves are broadly ovate to rhombic-ovate, typically 1 1/2" to 3 3/4" long and 1" to 3 1/2" wide, often displaying three distinct lobes.​

Leaf Venation: Venation is palmate, with three primary veins radiating from the base of the leaf blade.​

Leaf Margin: Margins are coarsely crenate to serrate, featuring rounded to sharp teeth along the edges.​

Leaf Color: Leaves are medium to dark green on the upper surface and lighter green beneath, with a slightly glossy appearance.​

Flower Structure: Flowers are solitary and axillary, measuring 2 1/2" to 4" in diameter, with five broad, overlapping petals forming a funnel shape.​ 

Flower Color: Petals range from white to pink, lavender, blue, or purple, often with a contrasting dark red or maroon throat. 

Fruit: The fruit is an ovoid capsule, approximately 3/4" to 1" long, composed of five valves that split open at maturity to release seeds. 

Seed: Seeds are kidney-shaped, about 3/16" to 1/4" long, with a smooth surface and a fringe of reddish-orange hairs along the margin. 

Bark: Bark is light gray to gray-brown, smooth on young stems, becoming slightly rougher and fissured with age.​

Hairs: Young stems and leaf petioles are sparsely to moderately covered with minute stellate hairs, which diminish as the plant matures.​

Height: This deciduous shrub typically grows to a height of 8' to 13' and a spread of 6' to 10', forming an upright, vase-shaped habit.

Rose of Sharon flower color is somewhat temperature dependent, range from blue when cooler and white when hotter.

Unopened flower buds are a tasty treat,


Rose of Sharon leaves are toothed and also often have three lobes.






Rows of brown, 2mm-diameter seeds are found in the dried seed pods.



Texas distribution, attributed to U. S. Department of Agriculture. The marked counties are guidelines only. Plants may appear in other counties, especially if used in landscaping.


North American distribution, attributed to U. S. Department of Agriculture.

Rose of Sharon are a non-native member of the mallow (hibiscus) family originally from East Asia, but its striking blossoms have made it a landscaping favorite across the Southeastern United States. This large shrub can reach up to 14' in height, but winter frosted often kill branch tips, preventing them growing that tall.

The showy flowers are loaded with an assortment of antioxidants including carotenoids anthocyanins, and flavonols. These compounds give the flower petals their color and their concentrations are dependent on soil pH and nutrients, but the red anthocyanins are sensitive to temperature, breaking down during the hotter times of day, allowing the yellowish/orange carotenoids or blue/purple flavonols to show. This causes flowers to change color throughout the day or across the short, 2-3 day, individual blooming time. While the life of a single flower passes quickly, the bush constantly produces new flowers for several months.

Technically, the leaves of Rose of Sharon are edible, but I find them somewhat tough. But the flowers, from young buds, through opening, to tender seed pods, are wonderful. All of these stages are fine raw, but the closed flower buds and young seed pods can also be pickled or fried just like okra pods. If left to reach full maturity, the seeds collected from the dried pod can be roasted, then ground up and used to stretch out one's supply of coffee. They don't contain any caffeine, but they do have something like a coffee flavor...especially if you haven't had coffee in a while. 


Buy my book! Outdoor Adventure Guides Foraging covers 70 of North America's tastiest and easy to find wild edibles shown with the same big pictures as here on the Foraging Texas website.

How to learn edible wild plants.

Learning edible wild plants takes time and effort, there are very few shortcuts. However, the following tips will save you a lot of wasted effort. If you are serious about learning your local edible flora here what you want to do:

The Terrible Secret About Most Edible Plant Books
I get several e-mails a week asking "what one book is the best guide to edible wild plants?". The quick response is Peterson's Guide to Edible Wild Plants. It is probably the most comprehensive guide to edible plants in North America even though it mainly focuses on the northeast. It has color pictures, line drawings, and habitat info on hundreds of plants. But I have yet to meet anyone who successfully taught themselves more than 6-9 plants using this book. Few people can translate its line drawings and postage stamp-size pictures into real plants in the real world.

There's no such thing as a prefect, complete edible plant guide. Unless you are already a plant expert it's impossible to teach yourself all your local edible plant from a single book. It's too hard to have clear pictures of every plant in every stage of it's life. For that reason you really need to have multiple reference books. I have over thirty plant books that I use as guides. These aren't all just about wild edibles. They also include wildflower guides, weed guides, tree guides, botany textbooks, gardening books, forestry books, etc... Each book has different pictures and descriptions of the same plants. Once you get some books start flipping through them every chance you get. You want to train you eyes to see specific plants in all their stages among the Big Green Sea that surrounds you. You don't need to know the name or anything else about the plant at this point, just that you might have seen it in one of your books.

Update: when this article was first written I never expected I'd write a book. Well, I have and it avoids all the problems I described. Outdoor Adventure Guides - Foraging has multiple, big pictures of each plant (leaf, flower, stem, fruit, etc...) along with pictures of any poisonous mimics. It includes range maps to show you where in North America each plant is found, it even has a calendar showing you when the plant will appear depending on if you're in the south, central, or northern areas of this continent. Idiot's Guide: Foraging is available in both paperback and Kindle editions.

Cross Referencing
Once you've found a plant that might be edible it's time to ID it. Take a bunch of pictures of the plant's flowers, leaves (top and underside), stem, and overall appearance. Compare it to many pictures in your books, match the leaves, it's size and shape, and where it is usually found to similar plants in your books. At this point it's very helpful to understand plant descriptors (sepals, palmate, lobed, etc...) as it makes it easier to search through the books. Don't limit yourself to just using books to ID a plant. The internet is obviously another great resource for figuring out what the plant might be.

Take a Class
The best thing a plant newbie can do is take a class and I'm not just saying that because I teach the subject. A few hours with a good teacher will get you through the first, steepest part of the learning curves. By the end of the class you won't be adrift in the Big Green. You'll be able to pick out many plant all around you that are safe to eat (as well as know which tasty-looking plants are highly toxic!). Once you've been taught a bunch of edible plants, learning more becomes much easier as your "plant eye" will be much stronger. Then when you are on your own looking at a landscape you'll already see plants that you can/can not eat. You'll be left with just a few plants that you don't know, which is no longer overwhelming.

The other nice thing about taking a class is you'll get to see plants in different stages of their life. A particular plant may not be ready for harvest yet, but by seeing a young one you'll be able to go back and follow its growth. Or if it's past time you may be able to collect seeds to grow your own.

Growing Your Own
One of the best things you can do to learn edible wild plants is to grow your own. Seeds can be either collected in the wild (follow all appropriate laws!) or purchased via the internet. Observing the plant from seedling to maturity is a great way to train your eyes to see it out in the wild.

The Well-Trained Eye
The repeated scanning of your plant books, internet sites, and home-grown plants will have filled your subconscious with key plant-shapes to look for and you'll be surprised at how they suddenly jump out at you! Each time you go out pick a few new plants to research and after a year or three you'll have mastered the all local edibles. You know you are doing it right when you start dreaming about edible wild plants.


Buy my book! Outdoor Adventure Guides Foraging covers 70 of North America's tastiest and easy to find wild edibles shown with the same big pictures as here on the Foraging Texas website.