Emergency Preparedness: Generators

Nowadays we used a lot of very power-dependent gizmos and so if you want to maintain anything near a modern lifestyle when the power goes out you'll need a generator. To try and do it with solar panels is possible but requires a lot more space and money. 

In this post I'll be covering general safety tips, how the generate electricity, the pros and cons of different types of generators, what types of extra equipment you might need with a particular type of generator, and the preventative maintenance you'll need to perform on it to make sure it's ready to go when you need it. I won't be covering whole-house generators that are plumbed directly into your natural gas supply, other than to say while they can be sized to power your entire house, they have a high initial cost and a fairly high running cost. If that's the type of system you want contact an instillation company directly. 

Generators are labelled by how many Watts of power they can produce continuously and for initial surge. An example would be "3250 Watts Continuous, 5050 Watts Surge". The surge Watts are necessary to run certain devices that require a lot of energy to start but once they're running they need less power to keep going. AC units, freezers, and fridges are examples of devices having a high, initial surge power demand and then a lower operating power requirement.


Generator Safety & Considerations

Placement

  • Don't run inside the house or attached garage. Exhaust is poisonous!
  • Running a generator in an unattached garage isn't a much better idea.
  • Don't run it near an open window, door, or AC air intake (yours or your neighbors).
  • The exhaust is HOT so don't direct it towards anything flammable or easily melted. It's not good for plants, either.
  • Don't let rain, snow, or sleet fall on the generator. Set it on a dry surface.
  • Be sure the generator is level and stable to insure proper flow of fuel.
  • Check local or state laws and HOA regulations on the type, placement, hours of use, and fuel storage for generators. Texas generator laws.

Carbon Monoxide

  • Generator exhaust contains carbon monoxide, a poisonous, odorless gas that irreversibly binds to blood hemoglobin, preventing the blood from absorbing/transporting oxygen.
  • Always have a working carbon monoxide detector between the generator and the house to let you know if the wind has shifted, sending carbon monoxide towards the house.
  • Pay attention to wind direction (see warning above).

Grounding

  • Read the owner's manual to see how to properly ground your generator!
  • To avoid possible, accidental shocks/electrocution the generator should be grounded.
  • Grounding can be accomplished by running a jumper cable from the generator's grounding point to a piece of metal pipe or iron rebar stuck at least 12" into the ground. Attaching the ground end of the jumper cable to your water line is another good method.

Refueling

  • Don't try to refuel a generator while it's still running. You and your house will end up burned beyond recognition.
  • Let the generator's engine cool down to a touchable temperature before refueling.
  • Don't smoke while refueling the generator. Using a match to see into the fuel tank is also a real bad idea.
  • Don't store spare fuel inside the house or attached garage. Storing it in an unattached garage isn't much better. Store it in the yard somewhere protected, like a shed.

Power Cords

  • Use a heavy-gauge power cord to run power to heavy-demand items such as freezers, fridges, or AC units.
  • If possible, run individual, heavy-duty power cords from the generator to each heavy-demand item (fridge, freezer, AC) to avoid drawing too much current through a single power cord. If the power flowing through a cord gets too high it can catch fire!
  • If you can't afford multiple heavy-duty cords get one super-heavy duty cord with three outlets at the end.
  • Run the power cords through a window and then fill the window opening with blankets, foam rubber, towels, or other stuffing to reduce the chance of carbon monoxide entering the house.

Theft

  • Generators are targets for thieves, especially in a big disaster.
  • Write down the make, model, and serial number of your generator to help recover it if stolen.
  • Figure out where you'll be running the generator and then cement into the ground some sort of large, steel ring near that spot. Chain the generator to that ring using a heavy-duty security cable and lock. Better yet, cement several rings into the ground and use several security cables to lock it down.
  • If the cemented ring isn't an option, chain it to a tree, vehicle, or some other big, immovable object.
  • If possible, after dark take turns staying awake to keep an eye on the generator.

Spare Parts

  • 2-3 bottles of the proper oil required to maintain proper lubrication of the engine.
  • 2-3 spark plugs
  • 1-2 spare air filters
  • 1 spare pull-start cord
  • In the case of a gasoline or diesel unit, a spare carburetor is good to have on-hand
  • Fuel line tubing. As the machine ages the fuel line naturally becomes brittle. Figure out what size interior diameter (ID) your generator needs and buy a few spare feet of fuel line (it's cheap) from a local hardware store.
  • Funnel for adding oil
  • Used oil container
  • Battery charge maintainer if electric start
  • Multimeter for troubleshooting power issues, assuming you learn how to use it.

Pull vs Electric Start

  • Pull starts are mechanically simpler and therefore more reliable but also require a great deal of physical strength. Weak or injured people may not be able to get the generator running.
  • Electric starts are much easier to fire up...assuming everything is working right. They require a battery which needs to be kept charged. Over time the battery naturally loses strength even if kept connected to a battery maintainer. After three years it becomes much less likely to work and probably should be replaced.


How Generators Produce Electricity

When you move a magnet past a piece of wire, the magnetic field will force some of the wire's electrons to be released and move along the wire. This movement of electrons is what we know as electricity and it can be tapped to power electronic devices...assuming the wire is long enough and the magnet is strong enough.

If you coil the wire into a ring the magnet only needs to move a short distance to start moving the electrons. In a generator, there is a very long piece of coiled wire that is rotated between a ring of multiple magnets. As this wire coil turns lots of electrons are sent down it to the power outlet where you plug stuff into the generator. The more wire, more magnets, and faster the wire coil is spun the more power the generator produces. The the resulting electricity is alternating current aka AC voltage with a full sine wave.

To spin the wire coil, generators use some sort of gasoline, diesel, or propane powered engine to rotate the coil at extremely high speeds. The type of fuel the engine uses determines a lot of the cost, physical size, pros, cons, extra equipment, and maintenance the generator will need. Keep in mind, while it might be nice to have power continuously, depending what you're running you don't have to run the generator non-stop. Running it for an hour every 3-4 hours will be more than enough to keep your fridge & freezer cold if you keep them closed. 

I've already shown how to calculate how many Watts you'll need in the post Emergency Preparedness: Power Basics so let's move on to talking about what to expect from the different types of generators.


Propane Generators

I'm starting with propane-powered generators because in my personal opinion they are the most practical type for most people due to the easy & safe storage of fuel along with their relatively low maintenance needs. After studying everything about generators I chose a 3250 Watt, propane-powered generator and love it. The one I have is no longer made but the equivalent would be a Champion Model 76533 Propane/gasoline Dual Fuel Generator.

Pros:

  • Fuel Storage - these generators use a standard, 20lb propane bottle like your propane grill which are readily available (most of the time). Propane doesn't degrade so you can store multiple bottles for years if necessary. 
  • Fuel Cost - Propane is generally much cheaper than cost of gasoline or diesel needed to produce an equal amount of power.
  • Fuel Safety - while propane is highly flammable it is non-toxic. If you accidentally release some it'll quickly dissipate without causing an environmental or health risk.  
  • Runtime - a 20lb bottle will give 6-10 hours of run time depending on how much power you need from the generator. Three bottles will often be enough for most situations...but you can usually trade your neighbors electricity in exchange for their BBQ grill propane tank if the situation lasts longer than three days.
  • Power Output - propane is a high-energy fuel so it can produce a lot of electricity. They usually start at 3000 Watts and can be found up to double that. 
  • Maintenance - since propane is a gas, when it evaporates it doesn't leave behind the gums and resins that gasoline or diesel do. This means lower carburetor maintenance! The carburetor is where the propane and air mix before going into the piston's ignition chamber (the part where propane is burned). Since the fuel is still unburned in the carburetor, when you turn off the generator fuel remains there. Gasoline and diesel will eventually evaporate form there, leaving behind goo which can prevent a carburetor from working the next time you need to run the generator. Propane doesn't leave goo behind!
Cons

  • Size - to take full advantage of the power produced by propane the resulting generators are physically large. They will be up to 2-3 feet long and 2 feet wide.
  • Noise - most propane generators are made for construction sites where noise isn't a problem. They will be as loud as a standard gas-powered lawnmower so running them is noisy! This is especially problematic at night...or when you don't want thieves to know you have a generator.
  • Fuel Storage - keep in mind while propane tanks are safe to keep filled for long periods of time, the valve systems on the tanks have an expiration date. If the tank valve has expired, propane refillers won't refill it. This is really only a problem with the big, 50lb propane tanks that can't be swapped out for regular tanks at tank exchange locations, though.
 Extra Equipment & Maintenance

  • Fuel Tanks - if you have a propane generator, then you'll want at least three standard, 20lb propane tanks. Better still, several 50lb propane tanks, though those are heavy to move around.
  • Maintenance (Tools) - proper oil for the engine, funnel for filling the oil, spark plugs, spark plug wrench, spark plug gap tool, used oil storage container.
  • Maintenance (Oil Changes) - Usually oil needs to be changed after the first 30 hours and then every 100 hours of runtime after that or every year after, but check the generator's instruction manual to see what it says.
  • Maintenance (Spark Plug) - Change every year.


Gasoline Generators

While there's a lot of good things about gasoline-powered generators, I just don't like their negative aspects. If I were to get one it'd be a Honda Model 663510 1000 Watt Generator.

Pros

  • Small Size - gasoline is a very efficient fuel and so its popular for physically small, lower power demand generators. A 800 Watt unit can be less than 1.5 feet long and 1 foot wide, making them popular with campers who don't have high energy demands
  • Quiet - because gasoline generators have a long history of use by RVers and campers, silencing technology on them is much more advanced.
  • Linking - again due to the long use by RVers, certain gasoline-powered generators of the same make and model can be linked together to meet higher power demands. Honda's, in particular. This is useful if several family members, neighbors, or post-apocalyptic tribes want the ability to sometimes join together to run a higher power-needing device.
Cons

  • Fuel Lifespan - gasoline begins degrading right after it leaves the gas station pump so long-term storage is problematic. You need to add some sort of fuel stabilizer to the gasoline can to slow down this degradation but even then the life is measured in months, not years.
  • Fuel Safety - gasoline is REALLY flammable so storing three days worth (15-20 gallons) basically places a bomb on your property (only slight exaggeration!). Gasoline will dry out and irritate skin if spilled on it. A leaking gas can will cause environmental damage to the ground where it leaked. Cleaning up a gasoline spill creates a hazardous waste.
  • Fuel Ethanol - most gas station gasoline is mandated by the government to contain ethanol. Ethanol causes corrosion of metal parts in an engine, causing hard-to-fix mechanical issues and shortening the generator's lifespan. Ethanol-free fuel can be found at some locations but it costs a lot more.
  • Gas Cans - metal gas cans will last years but they cost a lot and if damaged they can start rusting. Plastic gas cans are cheap but turn brittle and have a short lifespan (less than two years, to be safe).
  • Maintenance - a gasoline generator MUST be run under a load one a month otherwise the carburetor WILL get gummed up, making it unreliable. This month running is a pain in the A55!

Extra Equipment & Maintenance

  • Fuel Tanks - you'll want at least 15 gallons of gas stored at all times. 
  • Fuel Stabilizer - if storing fuel for months you need to add some sort of fuel stabilizer otherwise it degrades and doesn't burn properly.
  • Replacement Carburetor - its often best to swap out a clean carburetor  while cleaning a gummed-up one because you forgot to run the generator some month.
  • Maintenance (Tools) - proper oil for the engine, funnel for filling the oil, spark plugs, spark plug wrench, spark plug gap tool, used oil storage container.
  • Maintenance (Oil Changes) - check owner's manual
  • Maintenance (Spark Plug) - check owner's manual


Diesel Generators

Diesel generators have a number of benefits over gasoline but also some big drawbacks, depending on your needs. A diesel generator was actually my second choice based on the pros and cons. I like this Generac Model 6864 unit as it is made by the company that makes my propane-powered generator.

Pros

  • Durability - diesel generators are usually used where they need to run a long time and so are generally the most reliable type of unit.
  • Power - because of the power density of diesel fuel, they are often the most powerful units one can buy. If you are wanting to run a lot of stuff at the same time and you have a place to store the fuel a diesel generator makes sense.
  • Fuel Storage - diesel actually has a fairly low flashpoint, making storing a large amount of it much safer than gasoline or even propane. Diesel fuel cans are colored yellow to distinguish them from gasoline cans.
  • Fuel Cost - if the diesel is going into a generator you can buy the untaxed "farm" aka "off road" diesel...but if you are caught using to fuel a vehicle driven on the road you can be fined a lot. Off road diesel contains a red dye to indicate its untaxed. If traces of the red dye are found in your diesel vehicle you are in a lot of trouble. The government wants its tax money!
Cons

  • Cost - SUPER expensive!
  • Physical Size - with power comes size and so diesel generators will be bigger and heavier than even propane ones.
  • Fuel Stability - diesel degrades in a different way than gasoline. It actually supports bacterial growth so stabilizing it requires a diesel-specific fuel stabilizer.
  • Fuel Viscosity - diesel fuel is thick and in cold temperatures it can gel up and become hard to pour!
  • Maintenance - like a gasoline generator, the diesel unit needs to be run at least once a month to keep the carburetor clean and all the seals tight.

Extra Equipment & Maintenance

  • Fuel Tanks - you'll want at least 14 gallons of gas stored at all times such as in this farm equipment diesel tank
  • Using Up Old Fuel - if you don't have a diesel truck using up old fuel close to going bad becomes a problem. If you are using farm diesel then you can't even burn it in a diesel road truck or car.
  • Fuel Stabilizer - if storing fuel for months you need to add some sort of antibacterial diesel stabilizer otherwise it degrades and doesn't burn properly. Due NOT use a fuel stabilizer designed for gasoline!
  • Replacement Carburetor - like with a gasoline unit, its often best to swap out a clean carburetor  while cleaning a gummed-up one because you forgot to run the generator some month.
  • Maintenance (Tools) - proper oil for the engine, funnel for filling the oil, spark plugs, spark plug wrench, spark plug gap tool, used oil storage container, diesel storage tank
  • Maintenance (Oil Changes) - check owner's manual
  • Maintenance (Spark Plug) - check owner's manual


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Emergency Preparedness: Power Basics

Having a reliable source of power during a natural (or man-made!) disaster isn't just a matter of comfort, it can save your or someone else's life. However, with so many different methods of maintaining emergency power, the options, cost, pros and cons of all the different ways can be overwhelming. The goal of this post is to help you understand those option and then decide which best fits your power needs, available space, budget, and level of effort.

Everyone has different power needs but how does one figure out how much power is needed? It boils down to what sort of equipment do you need to power? If all you need is to recharge your smartphone every so often you won't need much. You or a family member needs a CPAP machine? You'll need more. Want to run and AC unit, fridge, freezer, and computer network? You can do that if you're willing. So let's look at calculating your power needs, but to do that we need to learn some terms and units of measuring electricity.

Important Definitions

Amp-hour (aka ampere-hour aka Ah): unit of electrical charge needed to produce 1 amp of power continuously for 1 hour. Commonly used to describe power potential of batteries

Watts (aka W): unit of measure describing energy flow

Voltage (aka V): unit of measure of how badly electricity wants to get from point A to point B. May be either AC (alternating current) or DC (direct current)

AC (aka alternating current): electricity produced by the spinning of a generator produces electricity who's direction of flow from point A to point B keeps changing direction. The electricity coming out of your wall outlet, gas-powered generator, or wind-powered generator is AC and most household devices are designed to use this sort of alternating current or they have a device which converts the AC to DC (direct current).

DC (aka direct current): this is electricity which always flows in the same direction from point A to point B. Electricity from batteries and solar panels is DC and so any equipment that uses batteries is also DC.

Load a measurement of how much power a device needs to operate, usually measured in amps or watts. Devices with an electrical motor such as air conditioners, fridges, and freezers have both a high initial load and then a lower continuous running load. This means the power requirements can be high. Electronics, lights, radios, and other items that don't have a motor usually require less power.

Battery a devices that generates electrical power by a chemical reaction. The chemistry can be acid or lithium based and they are designed to be either one-time use or rechargeable. Large rechargeable batteries include car batteries or "deep-cycle" batteries that power things like golf carts, electric scooters, or automobile "jump-starters". The power output of batteries is usually measure in amp-hours. Example, a 25Ah battery can produce 1 amp of power for 25 hour, 25 amps for 1 hour, or some other balanced combination of that output. The power output can also be measured in Watt-Hours by multiplying amp-hours by voltage. Example,  for a 12VDC, 25Ah battery, 12 x 25 = 300 Watt-Hours. Like with amp-hours, this can be 1 Watt for 300 hours, 300 Watts, for 1 hour, or some balanced mix.

Car Battery a type of large battery found in diesel and gasoline-powered automobiles, which turns the starter motor when the car is first started. These are designed to produce a lot of current really fast at 12.6 VDC (Volts of DC). They will be permanently damaged if drained down to where they're producing less than 11.9 VDC. While driving, your vehicle recharges the battery using 13.5-14.7 VDC.

Deep-Cycle Battery a type of large batteries that is designed to be charged up and then expended hundreds or thousands of times as opposed to a car battery. They usually are designed to produce 12 VDC for long periods of time as opposed to the quick power production of a car battery. They can be drained somewhat lower than a car battery without damage. Deep-cycle batteries are used to store power from solar panels.

Inverter an electrical device which converts DC power from a battery (car or deep-cycle) or solar panel into AC power need for many household electronics. Expensive inverters convert the direct (DC) current into "real" (sine wave) AC electricity. Cheaper inverters convert the DC into "square" sine waves which can damage electronics. Inverters come in different sizes to handle different power demands. You need to make sure your inverter can handle the power needed. If it's too small you'll blow its fuse.

Fuse a safety device made of a thin wire enclosed in a plastic or glass case included as part of the power system. If your load exceeds the power available the thin wire will heat up and melt, cutting power to the device but also preventing more serious damage to the power-supplying battery, generator, or solar panel. When a fuse "blows" or burns out to save the equipment it must be replaced to complete the circuit before the system will work again. If it blows you need to reduce the load on your power supply by either reducing the number of devices trying to use power or changing to a bigger source of power. If your system has fuses it's good to keep replacement fuses on hand in case you accidentally blow a fuse.

Circuit-Breaker a more advanced type of fuse that works mechanically to break the circuit if the load is too big for the power source. These usually have a button that one presses to reset the circuit breaker rather than needing replacement like a fuse.

Generator a device that produces electrical power by rotating a coil of insulated copper wire in a magnetic field. This causes electrons in the copper to flow which we can then use to power stuff. The output is generally AC due to the coil's rotation. Rotating the coil is done by some sort of engine running on gasoline, diesel fuel, propane, or natural gas. Electrical power output is based on the horsepower of the engine spinning the coil and generally range from 800 Watts to over 10,000 Watts.

Solar Panel a device that converts sunlight into electricity as DC voltage. The type and size of the panel, the temperature it is, and how much light is hitting it determines how much power a solar panel puts out. Output is given in Watts. A small panel designed to just charge a cell phone may produce 0.5 to 10 Watts. A large panel may produce 300 Watts. 100 Watt panels currently give the best cost to power value.

Charge Controller a device that is connected between a solar panel and a battery to protect the battery as it charges. The amount of power being put out by a solar panel is constantly changing due to the angle of the sun, clouds, or other shade coming and going. If the solar panel puts out power with a voltage greater than 14.7 VDC the attached battery(s) can be ruined. Cheap, basic "PWM" charge controllers (under $30) only protect the battery whereas expensive (over $100) "MPPT" charge controllers do all sorts of other magic to optimize the charge of batteries. I use an MPPT charge controller in my system to minimize the time need for my 100 Watt solar panel to charge my 30Ah deep-cycle battery, taking about 4 hours of sunlight.


Calculating Power Requirements

All electrical devices sold in the USA are required to have a UL Label showing its power needs. This label will list the voltage amount and type, start-up amps, and running amps the thing needs. An example is shown below and a yellow box marks the amps and voltage it needs.

To run this, I need to give it 5 amps supplied via 115 VAC (Volts of Alternating Current). To see if I can power it I need to convert this to Watts by multiplying the amps by the volts: 5.0A x 115 VAC = 575 Watts. My single 100 Watt solar panel isn't nearly enough, I'll need to run it off my 3250 Watt propane generator.

Some Watt Requirements of Household Devices
Air Conditioner: 7200 Watts to start, 3250 Watts to run
Refrigerator: 2000 Watts to start, 500 Watts to run
Microwave Oven: 3500 Watts to start, 700 Watts to run
Water Pump: 4000 Watts to start, 2000 Watts to run
Television: 300 Watts
Computer: 400 Watts
Coffee Maker: 1500 Watts
Electric Blanket: 400 Watts

To figure out how many total Watts you'll need to do the "volts x amps" calculation for everything you want to run at the same time and add them all up to get the total Watts needed. This number can climb very high very quickly! Assume that if you want to run a fridge, freezer, and AC unit you'll need some sort of powerful generator or a whole bunch of solar panels and batteries along with a very large inverter to convert the solar panel/battery DC power into the AC power this needs. Follow the links below to learn more about using generators and solar panel systems.

Emergency Preparedness: 72 Hour Kit

In the case of an unexpected (or more recently proven, expected!) grid-down event, the Red Cross and the US government warn people to NOT expect help for at least 72 hours. During that time you need to be able to fend for yourself and ideally help out your neighbors. 

Below are a series of videos I did on the basics of creating such a 72-hour emergency kit. Hopefully these videos will show just how easy it is to GREATLY increase your safety and comfort when things turn really bad.


72-Hour Kit: Overview



72-Hour Kit: Water
Store-bought 1gal jugs leak so place in plastic tub. Heavy-duty containers are better.

Water Purification
Boiling removes bacteria & viruses but not chemical contamination.
Filter “straws” remove bacteria but not viruses or chemicals
Berkey black filters remove bacteria, viruses, and chemicals
Chemical water sterilization kills bacteria, most viruses but doesn’t remove harmful chemicals


72-Hour Kit: Storing Food
Store what you eat, eat what you store. Aim for stuff that can be eaten right out of the package.


72-Hour Kit: Cooking Food


72-Hour Kit: Washing Dishes
3-tube scout method: soapy water --> rinse water --> water with bleach


72-Hour Kit: Medicines
Be ready for pain, burns, bug bites, sleeplessness, upset stomaches, or diarrhea 


72-Hour Kit: First Aid Supplies
Vetwrap (better than an ACE bandage)


72-Hour Kit: Documents Binder
Keep printouts of your insurance policies, medical information, banking records, and resume/employment information ready to access.


72-Hour Kit: Emergency Lighting


72-Hour Kit: Emergency Radios & Communication


72-Hour Kit: Fire Extinguisher!


Websites to Help You Be Prepared 
1. US Government: https://www.ready.gov/ 
2. Red Cross: https://www.redcross.org/get-help/how-to-prepare-for-emergencies.html 
3. US Center for Disease Control: https://emergency.cdc.gov/
4. Survival Mom: https://thesurvivalmom.com/




Identifying Unknown Plants/Mushrooms

Proper identification of plants is the hardest skill beginner foragers need to develop. Luckily there are all sorts of resources available to help you figure out what plant you've found. Below are websites, apps, and books that I've found particularly useful over the years when trying to figure out a new plant. Mushroom identification help is at the bottom of the page.

You can actually post pictures of your plant on the Facebook pages but it helps if you've done some preliminary research on what it might be. Asking "Is this a...?" will get you a water response than "What is this?". Multiple, CLEAR, pictures of leaves, flowers, fruit, etc along with information about the location and environment in which it was found helps tremendously.

Facebook
www.facebook.com/ForagingTexas/
www.facebook.com/groups/texasflora/

Weeds Websites
Weed Alert
Weed ID
Preen Weed ID
Weeds Apps
Apple ID Weeds
Google ID Weeds
Different Weed ID App
Monsanto Weed ID
Weeds Books
Weeds (A Golden Guide from St. Martin's Press)
Brush and Weeds of Texas Rangelands


Vines Websites
Vines of Central Texas (pdf file)
Vines Books
Trees, Shrubs, and Vines of the Texas Hill Country (Jan Wrede)


Wildflower Websites
Texas Wildflower Pictures
UT Wildflowers Guide
Aggie Hort Wildflowers Guide
MyWildflowers.com
Wildflowers.org
Wildflower Apps
East Texas Wildflowers (also available as Apple app)
West Texas Wildflowers (also available as Apple app)
Wildflower Books
Wildflowers of Texas (Geyata Ajilvsgi)


Trees Websites
Texas Trees Identification
Arbor Day Foundation Tree Identification
Tree Apps
LeafSnap
Tree App
Tree Books
Trees, Shrubs, and Vines of the Texas Hill Country (Jan Wrede)
Trees of East Texas (Robert Vines)


Freshwater Plant Websites
A&M Aquaplant
Freshwater Plant Books
Weeds (A Golden Guide from St. Martin's Press)


Coastal Plant Websites
Gulf Coast Plants
Coastal Plant Books
Marine Plants of the Texas Coast (Roy Lehman)


West Texas Plant Websites
Trans-Pecos Plants

Mushrooms Websites
Mushroom Expert
Texas Mushroom ID Facebook
Mushroom Apps
Roger's Mushrooms
Mushroom Books
100 Edible Mushrooms (Michael Kuo)
Texas Mushrooms
North American Mushrooms



Buy my book! Outdoor Adventure Guides Foraging covers 70 of North America's tastiest and easy to find wild edibles shown with the same big pictures as here on the Foraging Texas website.

Identification and Treatment of Poison Ivy

Poison Ivy (Toxicodendron radicans)
Poison Ivy

If you are a forager one of the first plants you need to be able to recognize is Poison Ivy...in all it's disguises. This is the true bane of those who wander the wild (and not so wild!) places. If you are allergic to the urushiol oil it produces this plant can cause havoc with you any time of the year. Time and again people suffer reactions internally from breathing the smoke from burning logs with a Poison Ivy vine attached. Due to the hard-to-remove properties of urushiol, clothes or pets that brushed against this terrible vine can cause a rash long after initial contact had occurred. Luckily, Poison Ivy has several distinctive features that make it easy to train your eye to spot it regardless of its attempts to hide!

Let's start with something almost everyone has heard "Leaves of three, let it be!" Okay, sounds good but what does this actually mean? Well, every variation of Toxicodendron radicans will have compound leaves consisting of three leaflets. While there are non-dangerous plants with compound leaves having three leaflets it is good to be wary when first encountering such a plant until further observations can be made.

Poison Ivy

Looking at the pictures here notice that the center leaf is mostly (but not always perfectly) symmetrical, having very similar shape and area on either side of its center vein. However, the two side leaflets are asymmetrical with the side nearer the center leaflet being significantly thinner in area than the sides away from the center leaflet. The "away" sides will be much thicker and will usually have one or more lobes. Think of these side leaflets as being mitten-shaped with their thumbs pointing away form the center leaf.

These three leaflets can vary in "pointy-ness" ranging from almost like spearheads down to rounded ovals. In each case though the symmetrical/asymmetrical areas of the center/sides leaves will remain.

Poison Ivy

Another annoying thing that interferes with identification of poison ivy is that its leaves can vary in size from barely an inch across up to the size of dinner plates. If you are used to one size leaflet you may not spot a much bigger/smaller version until it's too late.

Now lets look at the plant in its entirety. It is a vine which can creep along the ground but prefers to climb up trees, fences, walls, or any other vertical surface it can grab. How does it grab the surface? Not using a few long tendrils like Grapes or Passionvine but rather with thousands of short hairs which hold the vines tightly against the tree/wall/old tractor/etc. In Texas (and other states of lesser importance) its always smart to avoid touching hairy vines tight against a surface. Many of these, even though not Poison Ivy, produce sap which can still cause irritation and rashes on bare skin.

Hairy vines = bad vines!
Poison Ivy

Poison Ivy creeping along the ground.
Poison Ivy

Since Poison Ivy is so good at protecting itself, it won't have any thorns. If you find a vine with thorns it won't extrude urushiol...but still pay close attention! Poison Ivy looks to climb the same trees as thorny vines such as Greenbriar, often even wrapping itself around the greenbriar vine itself. That sucks because greenbriar is delicious.

Poison Ivy flowers are green-yellow and appear in clusters. Soon they are replaced by small, green berries which turn white upon reaching maturity. The berries will have a small dot opposite their stem, making them look a bit like eyes. White berries are somewhat rare in the wild and so make a good warning that you've entered an area with Poison Ivy! Birds are unaffected by urushiol and love to feast on these plentiful fruit...thereby spreading Poison Ivy wherever they fly to.

Young, green berries before they turn white.
Poison Ivy

In the fall Poison Ivy leaves turn a beautiful red or yellow color, then brown before dropping from the vine. Once the leaves have dropped the hairy vines are easily seen clinging to tree trunks. Young vines will barely be thicker than a pencil lead whereas many-year old vines can be two inches thick or more.

Poison Ivy

Many people claim to be resistant to Poison Ivy's urushiol and that is quite likely. The rash is actually an allergic reaction rather than a specific chemical attack. However, like all allergies one can suddenly (and usually permanently!) develop an allergic response to Poison Ivy even after years of no effect. Doesn't that just suck?

Sometimes you'll hear of someone reversing their allergy to Poison Ivy by eating one of its leaves every day when they first appear in the spring. I have not tried this as it just sounds like a bad idea to me!

If you know you're going into an area heavy with Poison Ivy I strongly recommend coating your skin with Workman's Friend Skin Barrier Cream as prevention against the urushiol from coming in contact with your skin. Please note that this barrier cream only offers protection for about four hours and it doesn't protect your clothing from absorbing this nasty plant oil. Also in light of full disclosure, I currently work for the company that produces Workman's Friend Skin Barrier Cream

If you do accidentally touch Poison Ivy the best treatment I've found is the Tecnu product line, which whom I have no financial interest. Within the first eight hours of contact use Tecnu Original Poison Oak & Ivy Outdoor Skin Cleanser, ideally before any rash appears. If your skin is already blistering carefully use Tecnu Extreme Medicated Poison Ivy Scrub to remove any residual urushiol and help heal the rash.

If you didn't buy Tecnu in advance and no blisters have yet appeared you can try scrubbing very thoroughly with some sort of mechanics soap that's specifically designed to remove engine oil and grease. Supposedly this can be somewhat effective.


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Elm Oyster Mushroom

 Scientific Name(s): Hypsizygus ulmarius

Abundance: uncommon
What: cap, stem
How: cooked
Where: on dead wood
When: fall, winter, spring
Nutritional Value: 
Dangers: Don't mistake Jack O'Lantern mushrooms (Omphalotus olearius) for oyster mushrooms.

COLLECTING MUSHROOM REQUIRES 100% CERTAINTY. WWW.FORAGINGTEXAS.COM ACCEPTS NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR IDENTIFICATION ERRORS BY ANY READERS.

Growth Form: Hypsizygus ulmarius often grows in clusters, typically on living or dead wood of deciduous trees, with elms being their preferred substrate. They often have a more "toadstool" shape than common oyster mushrooms.

Cap Shape and Size: The cap is initially convex, becoming more flattened with age, measuring 3 to 6 inches in diameter. It is white to cream in color, sometimes with a brownish center.

Gills or Pores: The gills are white, becoming cream-colored with age, and are attached or slightly running down the stem (adnate to subdecurrent).

Stipe Characteristics: The stipe is 1 to 3 inches long and 0.5 to 1.5 inches thick, white, sometimes scaly, and sometimes enlarges at the base.

Odor: This species typically has a mild, not distinctive odor.

Bruising: There is no significant color change on bruising.

Spore Color: The spore print is white.

Substrate and Habitat: Found predominantly on hardwoods, especially elm, and beech trees.

Other Characteristics: Known for its preference for growing on elm trees and its thick, meaty flesh. The mushroom is edible and valued for its texture and mild flavor.


Young elm oyster (Hypsizygus ulmarius) mushrooms growing on a dead tree.
Mushroom - Oyster

Same mushrooms from a slightly different angle.
Mushroom - Oyster

Another elm oyster from two angles.



The most apparent difference between common and elm oyster mushrooms is the stipe. Elm oysters will generally have a thick, round stipe 1"-2" long whereas the common oyster is usually attached directly to the tree without a distinct stipe.

Use these just as you would any store-bought white, button mushroom...but be sure to cook it. Wild mushrooms will always have a certain amount of bugs, bug larva, and bug eggs in them, so cooking is necessary to kill the extra, protein-filled critters.




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